Forward/Engine Area : General Arrangement

Front cowling bracket bolted to engine.

Location of engine oil breather vent. 1/2" dia.

A view of the general engine gear arrangement.

From Englan a new dual electronic ignition sistem with alternator incluiding(from a Honda CBR 600)

A domestic form to make weight of rod.The four are exactly in weight at both end

The balance have a maximun error of 2 gram

I used an old engine block to fit up my gear and engine mount and to verify the spacing of the bolts. I trial fit the block several times as I had heard that it can be a bear to get all of the bolts to fit through the firewall and line up with the block. Well, it worked to perfection. After spending about an hour setting everything up with the hoist and having all of my bolts, nuts and washers at hand, the actual engine mounting was a breeze. Make sure you put a tiny bit of lubricant on the bolts as they try to seize going through the aluminum. The engine has 1/4" spacers on the right moving the engine thrust to the left (from the pilot's seat).

Here is how I did it. No problems.

View of the engine room on a Teenie for sale in North Carolina on E-Bay in December 2002. Things I personally don't like about this installation: - No "elephant ears" to direct cooling air into the heads and around the cylinder barrels - No oil cooler, at least none visible. There is SOMETHING going on where the oil cooler should be. Things I DO like: - Carb Heat. Also notice the way the nosewheel fork is formed, and how long the engine mount stand-offs are.

Bob Hoover discussed turning the engine around and putting the prop on the flywheel end. http://www.escribe.com/aviation/vw/m11954.html http://www.escribe.com/aviation/vw/m11962.html This is my attempt to implement this idea. A couple of other points: http://www.bus-boys.com/mounts-engine.gif See the rear cross member, Item I? And the associated rubber mounts, Item A? This could be the basis the engine mount for that end of the engine. Also note there is good access to BOTH sides of the upper flywheel end bell housing holes. The square tubing is probably 3/4 X .058, the round is 5/8 X .058 The top mounts are to take some of the load in tension to the existing firewall structure, rather than in compression to the nosewheel fork or the contemplated new centerline hardpoint. If there was a better lower attach point, I'd use it, and perhaps dispense the the upper arms. The Great Plains mount does not use them http://www.greatplainsas.com/rdrvmount.jpeg

My biggest modification is in firewall area.One more inch up and one more inch down

The spiner come from RV-4,but maked of carbon fiber.12" of diameter

Carburator over engine?.Gasoline pump?.09 distribuitor?.Compu Fire ignitions?.Magneto?. Dual ignitions?.Alternator under engine?,or back? Now I have all the options.

In response to Bill's question in April '03 of what type of air cleaner to use, I wanted to offer my idea. [This airplane has not flown nor has the engine run yet with this set up.] The picture shows my carb heat box on the upper right, with the 4" round, automotive aircleaner attached. I drilled and safety-wired the wing nut to hold it. One hose on the right goes to the carb inlet (carb is reversed to normal, as some writings from years ago suggested turning the carb backwards to eliminate acceleration hicup- thanks to Bobby Thomas). Heat muff inlet faces you in this picture, and the hose to the left goes to the proposed heat valve for cabin heat for your feet when the carb heat is not needed.

Type IV posposed installation. Fuel injected.

Type IV engine setting on bath scales. it came in at 195lbs with everything hanging on.

Blister support brackets and electronic ignition coils plus wiring for injectors and sensors.

Brains, this is the electromotive ignition/injector system.

Left rear of Type 4 engine and Coil packs.

Left front of Type 4 engine on T2.

Right front looking back

Right rear looking forward.

1 by 1 in place to make the form of my cowling.

Air intake and exhaust system

Exhaust system right side

My 1600cc Single Ports engine, near to completion. Every things new, exept Crankshaft (Original German polish, and balanced), and rods (balanced to 0 gr. for both ends) I´m assembly the engine with R.Hoover mods, and accesories from Great Plain

Any changes in my engine.From Larry Flagg suggestion,I put the original radiator with my own air conduct design.This was made in fiber glass(The both parts weight 250g).The lateral outlet is for gascolator refrigeration

A lateral view.I´ll have 2,5" from firewall to the back off engine.

Frontal view.The spinner will be 9-7/8" in diameter(SN4 spinner from Aircraft Spruce

My intake tubes spot welded

Looking for details

Here you can see were I put my mechanical temperature sensor in the case.I´ll isolate the sensor and tube to the frontal air intake for a good reading

A view of my future cowling

The exhaust tubes are from Great Plain kit

The next photos are how I making my exhaust tubes. The form for my intake and exhaust tubes, are thinking in a "future" closed cowling

At left the standard 90° Great Plain tube.At right how I made the cut with a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a fine abrasive wheel for stainless steel

Next my left side, and affter a professional welding for all the tubes

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